Only in the Middle Ages did men begin to play a role in clothing production. Tailors joined a tailors’ guild. This guild represented their interests and maintained the craft through strict regulations. It discouraged competition, prosecuted and fined those who were unruly. The guild also provided training for tailors. Customers purchased the fabric themselves from a draper’s shop. It wasn’t until the 19th century that tailors themselves began selling fabric.
In the past, tailors sat on large tables to keep their fabric from hanging on the floor. They sat in a specific position that allowed them to sit for extended periods without tiring or developing muscle pain. This is now called the tailor’s seat.
Ready-made clothing emerged, employment declined, and tailors began working for the garment industry. Improved sewing machines accelerated production. By 1930, there were more than 500 large ready-made garment companies in the Netherlands. The decline of bespoke tailors was permanent. The quality of ready-made clothing improved after World War II as tailors flocked to work in the garment industry. The “Stijlgroep Groningen” (Groningen Style Group) was known for its excellent tailoring and fit.
In the 1970s, the ready-to-wear industry also declined because it moved to “low-wage countries”.
